Melody Kendall
It has been my observation that, by nature, gardeners love new plants and because of this their gardens change and evolve each season. As additions are planted either to replace or supplement our landscapes it is important to remember the proper way to make our newest acquisitions feel at home and flourish.
First, research your new addition's growing needs. How much sunlight, water and soil type will your particular selection need to thrive in its new home? Walk your landscape and pick the spot best suited to these specific requirements. Make sure to check for and avoid any underground drip irrigation lines that might be compromised when digging a hole. It is best to do your plant information research BEFORE purchasing the plant, but sometimes we can't resist and purchase plants that just aren't suitable for our landscape. My poor, lamented bouganvillas, are purchased with renewed hope each spring and then quietly moved to the compost pile at year's end, are an example.
When you have made your plant selection it is best to get the plant in the ground right away. If your newest addition's planting day is going to be delayed make sure to place it in a cool place and water it regularly until you can get it in the ground. Keeping your new plant hydrated will remove one stress factor from the planting process and, when you are ready to plant, a wet root ball is much easier to plant.
Once you have located a place for your new plant it is time to prepare the area. Dig the hole about ¼ -½ inch shallower than the depth of the pot. In other make sure that the plant will be a little above the level of the surrounding soil. The width of the hole should be at least double the width of the pot. Scratch the sides of the hole to make it easier for the roots of the plant to spread out. If the soil in the hole is firm, loosen it but leave a firm base at the bottom of the hole to support the plant in the raised position. Water the hole to wet the soil. If the soil is really compacted, wet the hole and allow the soil to settle for a couple of days. Reserve any soil removed from the hole.
Be gentle when removing plants from pots. Lay the potted plant on its side and, supporting the plant, roll and press lightly on the side of the pot to loosen the soil. Then, loosely supporting the entire plant, remove the plant from the pot. Never pull abruptly on the plant as this may break off foliage and damage it. Sometimes the plants have been so long in their current containers their roots have become crowded and bound tightly, or root bound. If this is the case, lightly massage and roll the root mass gently, loosening and breaking up the clump of roots. The goal is to end up with a loose root ball that looks like long tresses of hair. Sometimes the roots are so tightly bound that they must be cut and dead roots removed. Use a sharp knife or a similar tool to cut into the root mass about 2 inches deep, quartering the mass and removing dead roots. Place the plant into the prepared planting hole, draping the roots over a small mound of soil at the bottom of the hole. Make sure the plant is upright and facing in the desired direction. Remove any branches resting on the ground.
Use the reserved soil to backfill the area around the plant in stages a little at a time. Gently pat the soil down around the base of the plant, not compacting it to allow pore space between the soil particles with each addition until the hole around the new plant is filled in. Do not add any amendments or fertilizers at this time.
Once the hole is filled in, use any remaining soil to build a berm about 8 inches from the base of the plant to create a temporary water basin. Make sure the plant is higher than the reservoir of the basin as any standing water around the base of the plant will cause problems. This water basin can be removed after a few months.
Water the newly installed plant gently and thoroughly immediately after planting. Until these new additions are established water frequently, every two or three days if warm. Once established, the fall plantings have cooler temperatures and rain to keep them hydrated. If the plants are planted in the spring or during a dry fall the plants will need frequent watering. For the first few weeks water every two to three days and taper off after a few weeks to twice a week until the rains come. You can add stakes for support of trees or larger shrubs. Do not affix the plant tightly to support so they can flex easily to grow properly.
Mulch lightly around new plants, keeping the mulch at least six inches from the base of the plant to prevent root rot.
During the first season of your plant's installation keep an eye on them and look for signs of wilting. Do not let plants dry out while they are getting established.
Once established, follow the plant's water needs recommendations as listed on the plant tag or from researched information.
A few musts to be followed for new plants:
- Always start with healthy plants and soil
- All new plants need regular watering, even drought tolerant varieties, until established (usually 12 months)
- Do not overwater as over-irrigating is one of the chief causes of plant problems.
- Do not add fertilizers to new plants.
- Gopher problems-prepare site before planting with wire cages etc.
Napa Master Gardeners are available to answer garden questions by email: mastergardeners@countyofnapa.org. or phone at 707-253-4143. Volunteers will get back to you after they research answers to your questions.
Visit our website: napamg.ucanr.edu to find answers to all of your horticultural questions.
Photo credits: UC Davis
Information links:
UC Davis arboretum https://arboretum.ucdavis.edu/sites/g/files/dgvnsk1546/files/inline-files/All-StarsCareInstructions.pdf
Grownative.com https://grownative.org/learn/native-garden-installation-toolkit/
UCMG Marin County https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/CARE/PLANTING/
UC IPM-Gophers management http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html